Sunday, August 30, 2009

New Orleans

Last weekend Trav and I went on a journey. We began with a stop to my favorite childhood road-trip restaurant: Shoney's. They only exist in the south, and I had been dying to go since I first arrived in Memphis. They offer a great greasy, southern, sugar-filled breakfast buffet. I would definitely recommend the french toast sticks, but would encourage you to stay far far away from their dinner menu. We tried it once many years ago on the way to/from somewhere southern and it was terrifying.

Our destination was New Orleans, a mere 6 hours from Memphis. Knowing that we don't often have reason to head south, we couldn't resist. We had also heard that since Katrina, the tourism industry has been seriously hurting, causing the price of lodging to drop significantly. It was true- we booked a good (as in not the Ritz, but clean and simple) and very cute bed and breakfast right in the French Quarter for less than $60/night (on the weekend during the second busiest season).

If you're looking for an "exotic" feeling vacation, but don't have the money, time, or adventurous spirit to venture outside of the US, New Orleans is a great option. The architecture makes you feel as though you're walking down a street in Italy...or maybe France. The food is unlike any you'll find in other parts of the US (including the biegnets- I think I ate 6 or so in 1 day. Call me a glutton, it's true). There are plenty of historical things to see if you're in to that sort of thing- you can take a walking tour of the city during the day or a haunted tour of the spookier parts during the evening. You're also very close to plantations and swamps, which both offer guided tours for a price. Being the cheapos that we are, we opted out of any official paying tour (however we swiped an itinerary for one of the walking tours and did it on our own). But had we stayed longer and had a bit more money to spend, we probably would have indulged in something touristy.

New Orleans felt so festive. There was a ton of live music playing in restaurants or on the streets (we even heard a homeless woman busting out some impressive opera for spare change). You can find all kinds of souvenirs, from street art to voodoo dolls to overly offensive t-shirts (watch out for those) and spices.

And, of course, there's Bourbon Street. If you're a drinker, Bourbon Street = heaven. Even being non-drinkers, we still had plenty of fun peering into the bars, laughing at the drunk people stumbling about, and watching the men-folk taunt the girls with beads (a few boys desperately shook their beads at me in hopes of seeing some...skin. They were disappointed).

We also drove around the 9th Ward, which is the area that suffered the most damage from Katrina. It was interesting and depressing at the same time. On one hand, we were in awe of the destruction. In an area where houses used to be packed in so tightly you could shake hands through the windows, there are now chest high weeds and broken sidewalks. The houses still standing are either recently repaired or newly built. The city removed most of the houses that were past hope, but a few still remain (notice the slant on the house below).


Other lots are meticulously maintained-the owners obviously intend to return and rebuild one day.

I found this both sad and hopeful. Katrina happened four years ago and people are still displaced, still hoping to go back to their "homes" and start over. Four years! How much longer will they have to wait before they either give up or finally have enough saved to return? Maybe they never will. Maybe they shouldn't. Maybe it would be better to give up and start a new life somewhere else, somewhere they can have a fresh start with none of the bitter memories that life in the 9th Ward might dredge up. But the fact that these people still care enough about their homes to mow and edge their vacant lot means they're trying. Maybe these are the people who will actually succeed in life, the ones who will go back to New Orleans and make it a better city than it used to be.

Either way, New Orleans was great fun. You should go visit.

6 comments:

Miller Family said...

Does Shoney's make scones? I swear I have been there and had scones. New Orleans looks so cool, I would love to go. I want to eat at one of Emeril's restaurants. I'm glad you had fun.

M said...

Wow, that slanted house is pretty crazy!

Anonymous said...

Faitie says:

Ah the days of road trips with my kiddies and stopping at Shoney's for the their wonderfully unhealthy breakfast buffet. And you are right. Dinners there are scary.

Last time in New Orleans I took a paid tour of the city. It was great fun. I love the cemeteries there and how they must use above ground tombs due to water issues. Some tombs for a family had many bodies in it. There might be only space for about 10 or 15 bodies. But there might be 50 in there. What they do is this. When they run out of space and need to put in a newly deceased body they take the remains of the oldest person in there, bag them up and toss them in the back of the tomb. This frees up space. Ick!

As for the area destroyed when Katrina came through, yes it is depressing. My take is most of that area may never be rebuilt and maybe it should not be given the risks of living there.

The Hills... said...

I'm so jealous, I've always wanted to go there. So much character. Call me when you can, I want to catch up!

Brooke S. said...

Such a fun trip! I think there is a Shoney's in St. George, or Ceder City (or somewhere south on the way to California...i can't remember). You might have to make another pilgrimage if you get a hankering.

Layla said...

I love New Orleans and I am so glad you got to experience it.